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'We're brilliant at creativity' - Scotland's style icons

'Scotland is brilliant at style and creativity'
Pauline McLean
BBC Scotland arts correspondent

"People say tartan is a thing of the past but that's not true," says broadcaster Kirsty Wark.

She's keen to scotch that particular myth as she prepares to launch a two-part documentary into the history of Scottish fashion.

The programme includes the work of Samantha McCoach, a contemporary designer who is reinventing tartan for a new generation.

Samantha says that she owes her fashion brand, Le Kilt, to her Italian born grandmother.

"When she moved from Italy to Edinburgh she walked into a kilt-making shop on the Royal Mile, started pleating fabric and then became a kilt maker - and did that for 40 years," she explains.

"She made me a little Black Watch kilt which I wore all the time when I was working at Fred Perry, and it became my uniform. People kept asking me how to get one."

Two Rivers Media/BBC Scotland Presenter Kirsty Wark in a stylish black shirt with a long beaded black and white collar poses in front of a BBC Scotland backdrop which is white with black and pink logosTwo Rivers Media/BBC Scotland
Presenter Kirsty Wark brings us a new two-part documentary on the BBC Scotland channel about the history of Scottish fashion

Samantha launched her own brand in 2014, after she and her granny got to work on 12 different tartans at the kitchen table.

Ten years later, she showcased her work in a much grander setting as part of a Dior showcase at Drummond Castle in Perthshire.

"It was an incredible experience to be involved in such a wonderful show with so many artistans and to be able to showcase my granny's story was very special."

Dior has had links to Scotland since the fashion house was first established in 1946.

It has staged several shows here, including the one at Drummond Castle last year which was attended by Anya Taylor Joy, Rosamund Pike and Jennifer Lawrence.

In 2012, Linlithgow Palace played host to a Chanel showcase which used model Stella Tennant and her Scottish heritage as the inspiration.

Getty Images A dark-haired model walks the runway - a long path through the beautiful gardens of Drummond castle. She wears a modern outfit in yellow and black tartan - with a fitted corset top and matching shorts and long socks, with a long tartan train. She wears a striking piece of intricate costume jewellery round her neck. other models descend steep steps behind her.Getty Images
Samantha McCoach had her designs featured in the Dior Cruise show at Drummond castle in Perthshire last year

But the couture houses find more than inspiration in Scotland.

Chanel took over the cashmere mill Barrie Knitwear in the Borders which had gone into istration.

The Scottish/French label La Fetiche uses a number of Scottish businesses including the micro weaving mill, Vevar, in the east end of Glasgow.

"Fashion is so important and we don't shout about it enough," says model and broadcaster Eunice Olumide.

"We have some of the biggest luxury couture houses deg right here in Scotland and we also have some of the most successful designers being influenced by Scottish fashion, from Vivienne Westwood to Alexander McQueen."

V&A Dundee A coat in fabric made by Bernat Klein - it is displayed on a Tailor's mannequin at the V&A. The 3/4 length coat is in a boucle tweed texture, woven in shades of orange, pink, red and purple with a rounded collar, bracelet-length sleeves and two big single-breasted buttons.  V&A Dundee
Serbian-born designer Bernat Klein made the fabric for this coat while he lived in the Scottish Borders - he worked for Balenciaga and Chanel

Kirsty Hassard, a curator and fashion historian at the V&A Dundee, says the success of fashion exhibitions like Tartan and Mary Quant demonstrates the cloth's continuing popularity - and the desire to know more about it.

She showed me a bright orange coat and skirt which featured in the V&A's Tartan exhibition.

It is in a fabric made by the Serbian-born designer Bernat Klein, who lived in the Scottish Borders. He worked for Balenciaga and Chanel, but also provided textiles for the wholesale market.

The outfit was made in 1973 by the woman who went on to wear it - Judith Eason, a keen dressmaker and fan of Klein's.

"It shows the range of fashion, from high end to the woman who made this in her own home and treasured it," says Kirsty.

She believes an in-depth look at fashion at every level is long overdue.

"Fashion is a true powerhouse. A place like Dundee was built on textiles and it's something we may have slightly forgotten.

"This programme reminds us of the impact that textiles have had."

The link between music and fashion is illustrated by singers like Annie Lennox.

She offered the perfect canvas for designers, particularly those who were able to enhance her other-worldly, androgynous look.

Sometimes there is serendipity, like the night in 2007 when Paisley-born Pam Hogg bumped into Kylie Minogue the night before she recorded the video for her single Two Hearts.

Pam had an outfit based on a collection she made in the late 1980s.

"I thought it needed a little sparkle so I put these studs on," she recalls.

"A week later I went to this club in Shoreditch and I met Kylie. She said: 'Pam I'm so glad, I bumped into you. I'm doing a video tomorrow. I don't suppose you've got anything I can wear":[]}