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Follow the food wf6g

The forgotten foods that could excite our tastebuds i5b1q

By Norman Miller 255w6a

Look hard enough and it is clear the world is brimming with things for us to eat. z6q5x

But just a handful of crops make up the bulk of our food supplies. 2pw27

Can expanding the number of plants we consume improve food security and make our diets more exciting at the same time? 43676n

Just 12 plant species and five types of animal make up 75% of the world's food. At least 30,000 of the 350,000 known plant species on our planet are edible, according to the United Nations' Food and Agriculture Organization.

It is a woefully limited diet in the midst of such variety. Only 170 species of plant are cultivated for food on any significant scale. And around 60% of all the calories and proteins we obtain from plants come from just three grass crops – rice, maize and wheat.

There are huge risks in relying on so few plant species to feed the world. When a disease starts spreading in a particular crop variety, for example, it can surge worldwide. Often there is little genetic diversity within major crop species, leaving them even more vulnerable to disease. Climate change is also threatening our ability to grow these staple crops in many locations as they are not well suited to grow in the challenging conditions brought by greater droughts, flooding and rising temperatures.

There are some important lessons from history on the dangers of what happens if we rely on too few plant varieties for food. The devastating famine that hit Ireland in the late 1840s and 1850s, for example, resulted from the reliance on a single kind of potato by Irish farmers. When a fungal blight began destroying their crops, it wiped out a major food source for the country and over a million people died in the ensuing famine. But rather than learning from these mistakes, efforts taken in the mid-20th Century to feed the planet's rapidly swelling population have led to an over-reliance on just a few high-yield staple crops. The "Green Revolution" of the 1950s and 1960s saw agricultural scientists create varieties of wheat and corn, for example, that produced dramatically more yield per acre of land. While this has allowed farmers to continue feeding our rapidly growing population, it has also led to the spread of a mono-culture approach to agriculture.

The consequences of such mono-culture farming can be seen in a crisis that has struck one of the world's most familiar and popular fruits – bananas. There are over 1,000 varieties of banana, but 95% of the global trade in what is the fourth most important crop in the world has for decades relied on just a single variety, called the Cavendish. For the past three decades, however, a fungus known as Tropical Race 4 (TR4) - or Panama Disease – has decimated Cavendish bananas in over 100 countries, destroying crops in Latin America, Asia, Australia, the Middle East and Africa.

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Growers and scientists are fighting back against the disease in two ways – delving into the diversity in other species of bananas and using gene editing. There are hopes that by identifying genes that offer protection against the disease in other varieties of banana, they can be crossbred with Cavendish bananas to produce new varieties. Another approach is to genetically modify the Cavendish itself.

Researchers have already found a gene in species of wild banana that made them resistant to TR4 and have inserted it into the DNA of Cavendish bananas to produce disease-resistant strains. These TR4-resistant versions have been undergoing trials in northern Australia and if they through regulatory hoops could soon be available to farmers worldwide.

This approach could provide ways of increasing the diversity and quality of many of our other major food crops.

“I see gene editing as making an important contribution to things like disease resistance and nutritional quality in our crops,” says Wendy Harwood, who leads the Crop Transformation Group at the UK's John Innes Centre, in the UK. “The need to provide improved crops is urgent.”

Scientists like Harwood are utilising cutting-edge gene editing techniques such as Crispr, which allows sections of DNA to be precisely cut or inserted into genomes. This allows them to manipulate sections of plant DNA to promote desired agricultural traits. Past successes include creating new versions of wheat, barley, brassicas including broccoli, tomato and potato that are much less vulnerable to climate change, as well as specific diseases that can either destroy crops or lower the quality of the final product.

One project at the John Innes Centre, led by Harwood's colleague Catherine Jacott is aimed at combatting a mildew that, along with other problems such as rice blast, causes significant damage to rice crops worldwide, causing the grains to rot and acquire toxins. “My research involves a susceptibility gene – called Mildew Resistance Locus O (MLO) – that is a prerequisite for infection by powdery mildew fungi. By removing the gene, the plant gains resistance,” says Jacott. “Gene editing can also be combined with 'speed breeding', which optimises growing conditions to produce seed more quickly.” This is a technique first used by Nasa to grow crops faster in space by artificially extending the day length, controlling temperatures, using CO2-rich atmospheres and using hydroponic cultures that give plant roots quicker access to nutrients and oxygen. Other teams at the John Innes Centre are engineering drought tolerance in various cereals, and contributing to the Engineering Nitrogen Symbiosis for Africa (Ensa) project. This aims to improve the ability of crop plants to fix nitrogen into the soil as they grow, helping to improve the quality of the ground they are sprouting from. The aim is to provide a sustainable way to increase yields for small-holder farmers in Sub-Saharan Africa.

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Efforts to rediscover desirable characteristics in wild plants – as has happened with the banana – are revealing a vast, untapped storehouse of genetic diversity present in uncultivated relatives of key crops. The vast number and diversity of wild versions of major global crops is what makes traits like disease resistance highly likely to be found here. Botanists at the Royal Botanical Gardens at Kew, London, for example, have recently unearthed an enormously diverse list of 7,039 species of edible plants from 288 different plant families, the majority of which could be used far more as food.

Often, however, these wild varieties are untamed and difficult to grow at any scale. Their domesticated relatives have had these wild qualities bred out of them over the centuries, making them easier to grow and harvest. This is why agricultural scientists have instead focused on cross-breeding these wild relatives with current crops or using techniques like gene editing to "cut and paste" the traits we might want.

“Diversity has always been the basis of breeders' work to develop better crops," says Harwood. "Gene editing offers a way to get useful diversity discovered in wild crop relatives into our current crop varieties.”

But there are two other categories of underused plants that are already used as a food source that could play a much bigger role in feeding us through the 21st Century and beyond.

One of these often over-looked food sources are "orphan crops" – locally domesticated and cultivated species with wider potential to become significant sources of nutrition for more people. Fonio, for example, is a nutritious West African millet with a handy resilience to drought. As well as feeding locals, it is now appearing on the menus of pioneering restauranteurs in places like the US.

Moringa (Moringa oleifera) is another intriguing orphan crop. Native to South Asia, but also grown in parts of Africa and South America, it is a dense package of nutrients, which could make it a new 'superfood'. And then there are pumpkin leaves. Known in Nigeria as ugu – but eaten all over Africa – these can be eaten fresh or dried, steamed or sauteed, or added to stews and stir fries to provide significant amounts of calcium, iron, potassium and manganese, plus a good dose of several vitamins.

The other under-explored category of food crops are what were christened "Cinderella" species by Roger Leakey, now vice chairman of the International Tree Foundation, but previously director of research at the World Agroforestry Centre (WAC) in Kenya. He named them these because the plants are good and beneficial in many ways to those around them, but with their value seriously overlooked. Leakey marvelled at these culturally important and nutritious plants, which are little known outside their natural range, but whose products have traditionally been gathered from the wild. They include around 3,000 species of wild fruit trees in Africa, offering potential new crops like chocolate berries (Vitex payos), a tree whose harvest is apparently as delicious as it sounds.

For Leakey, drawing on Cinderella species to expand the 21st Century food larder follows a path long trodden by humanity. “There is nothing unusual about the progression of locally useful wild plants into cultivation,” he says. “Most, if not all, crop domestication originated from ethnobotanic knowledge.”

The potential of local African food plants is also celebrated by Prasad Hendre, laboratory manager for the multinational initiative known as African Orphan Crops Consortium. “Almost all the local African food crops are a storehouse of nutrition, energy and health promoting substances,” he says. But he wants to increase cultivation of these crops locally rather than globally, by ing farmers with storage facilities and collection centres, fair pricing in the wholesale and retail markets, along with protection against natural calamities, disease and pests.

“We need to look at the regional/local agricultural landscape as a whole, understanding interaction of these crops with other crops, trees, soil, animals and societies,” argues Hendre. “The larger agricultural models applicable elsewhere cannot be applied. We need to come up with localised solutions – enhancing growers' income, but in a way that is in harmony with the surroundings and environment.”

One project that is hoping to preserve the rich diversity of wild plant varieties so they can be used in the future is the Global Seed Vault in Svalbard, as James Wong finds out in the video below.

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Amazingly, the "discovery" by modern scientists of this treasure trove of traditional African plant species came about almost by accident. In the mid-1990s, WAC researchers were conducting surveys across sub-Saharan Africa to find out which indigenous trees locals – as opposed to outsiders – most valued. Rather than commercially important timber like mahogany, the experts were startled to find local people overwhelmingly chose indigenous fruit trees – species that were little known to modern science. The biological names of the trees was known, but little else, scientists at the WAC itted to New Scientist in 2009.

Since then, the WAC has helped spread the domestication across countries like Cameroon of the most highly-coveted of these wild Cinderella species, such as bush mango (Irvingia gabonensis) and safou (Dacryodes edulis), which is also known as African plum. Despite their names, neither is actually related to mangoes or plums.

Locals in Nigeria, Malawi and Cameroon prize these plants for a wide range of uses. As well as its fruit, the bush mango tree also produces fat and protein-rich nuts known as ogbono or dika nuts. Dried in the sun, these aromatic nuts can be ground to paste for making a local staple known as dika bread or, more prettily, Gabon chocolate. If powdered, they provide a thickening agent for traditional dishes such as ogbono soup or they can be pressed into a vegetable oil.

There are challenges with making more use of these types of crops, though. “The problem with ‘orphan’ crops is that there has been very little breeding work to improve them, so they often retain traits that limit their wider use,” says Harwood.

Despite this, farmers in some parts of the world are adapting to the challenges they face by experimenting with "exotic" crops that would have been unthinkable in the past. Stephen Jones, a farmer in Shropshire, UK, has been cultivating the South American grain quinoa since 2006 in an attempt to expand the variety of crops that can grow in the British climate. Rising demand for the grain has led him to team up with other British farmers.

“The most important facet of adapting quinoa to the UK environment is choosing the right variety... to grow a good quality edible quinoa seed,” says Jones. “We needed to undertake multiple trials to establish what the best growing conditions for quinoa are, but much has been learning from trial and error. Nowadays we grow quinoa in a well, spread-out pattern across the UK to manage our production’s risks against the weather.”

At Otter Farm in Devon, Mark Diacono has created what he has called a "climate change nursery" of plants that are now easier to grow as the average UK temperature rises – growing crops that normally have to be imported to Britain like Japanese wineberries and pecans. His biggest success, though, has been Szechuan peppers. "They are very reliable and fruit really well,” he says.

Another outpost of Far East crops flourishing in England is Namayasai Farm in Sussex, where Robin Williams and his wife Ikuko Suzuki have been growing yuzu, edamame, karashina (red mustard leaf), kabu (Japanese turnip), the minty herb shiso, negi (Japanese long onion), mitsuba (a Japanese take on parsley) and kabocha (a Japanese pumpkin) since 2004.

Across the Midlands of England, meanwhile, dozens of "exotic" crops are thriving in local allotments as part of the Sowing New Seeds project. This has brought together over 100 growers to cultivate plants native to countries as diverse and far-flung as Jamaica, India, Guyana, China, Pakistan, Japan, Zimbabwe and Ethiopia. "Talking to people growing non-traditional UK crops, we were surprised how well many grew in the UK climate," says Anton Rosenfeld, knowledge transfer officer at Garden Organic, who initiated the Sowing Seeds Project. “Some weren’t suited to our conditions, but there are some fantastic success stories.

Achocha, for example, absolutely thrives. It produces cucumber-like fruits with a wonderful flavour – a cross between minty cucumber and green pepper." Another success has been dudi or bottle gourd – a plant cultivated in the tropics for thousands of years.

Our global food market has already given consumers the opportunity to sample plants and crops from all over the world, but with the efforts of experimenting farmers, genetic scientists and expansion of under-valued orphan crops, our diets could get a lot more exciting still.

Follow the Food 2r6n42

This article is part of a multimedia series Follow the Food by BBC Future and BBC World News. Now in its second series, Follow the Food investigates how agriculture is responding to the profound challenges of climate change, environmental degradation, rapidly growing populations and the Covid-19 pandemic, which has brought new challenges to our global food supply chains. Follow the Food traces emerging answers to these problems – both high-tech and low-tech, local and global – from farmers, growers and researchers across six continents.

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Credits 733022

  • Pictures (in order of use): Alamy, Noah Seelam/Getty Images, Sebastien Bozon/Getty Images, Rodrigo Buendia/Getty Images, Asif Hassan/Getty Images, Jonas Gratzer/Getty Images, Alamy, Jonas Gratzer/Getty Images, Mike Goldwater/Alamy, Alamy, Alamy, Alamy, Stewart MacKellar, Seth McConnell/Getty Images
  • Video: Two Four
  • Ambient video: Getty Images
  • Words: Norman Miller
  • Editor: Richard Gray

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